Name: Mititei
Yield: about 25
Cuisine: Romania
Ingredients: 700 g ground beef, 80/20; 300 g ground pork shoulder; 200 ml low-sodium beef stock, cold; 1½ tsp powdered gelatin; 6 g baking soda (a slightly rounded teaspoon); 5 g lemon juice; 15 g fine salt; 4–5 garlic cloves, grated to a paste; 2 tsp ground black pepper; 1 tbsp dried thyme, crushed fine; 1 tsp ground allspice; 1 tsp ground coriander; 1 tsp ground cumin; 1 tsp sweet paprika (optional)

Method

Set the stock. Sprinkle the gelatin (1½ tsp) over the stock (200 ml¾ cup + 1 tbsp) and leave it 5 minutes. Warm just until dissolved, then cool to room temperature.
Mix. Dissolve the baking soda (6 g1 tsp) in the lemon juice (5 g1 tsp). Put the beef (700 g1½ lb), the pork (300 g⅔ lb), the soda mixture, the salt (15 g2½ tsp), the garlic cloves (4–5) and all the spices in a stand mixer bowl. Mix with the paddle on low for 2 minutes to combine.
Add the stock in three additions, then mix on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes, until sticky, pale and paste-like. Fry a small test patty and adjust the salt and garlic.
Rest. Cover and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours.
Shape. With oiled hands, shape rolls about 3½ inches long and 1¼ inches thick.
Grill over high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, turning three or four times, until well browned and just cooked through. A cast-iron pan or the broiler also works.
Serve with mustard and bread.

Notes

What the stock does. The baking soda lets the meat hold much more water, and the stock is that water. The gelatin sets in the fridge so the rolls can be shaped, then melts on the grill. Without it you get a dense, dry kebab.
Stock options. Water with the same gelatin works, with a little less beef flavor. Plain stock, sparkling water or beer gives a softer mix that is harder to shape. For the traditional version, simmer 500 g beef knuckle or marrow bones in 1.5 liters of unsalted water for 3 to 4 hours, strain, and reduce to about 200 ml; it should set to a firm jelly.
If the stock is salted, cut the salt by about a third and adjust after the test patty.
Meat. All beef is the 1920 rule. Most Romanian home versions now mix in pork, and beef, pork and lamb at about 50/25/25 is also common. Aim for 20 to 25% fat overall.
Baking soda. This is 6 g per kg of meat, down from the 8 g of the 1920 recipe, which can leave a faint soapy taste.
For a slightly bouncier texture, hold back half the stock, mix it in for 4 to 5 minutes after the overnight rest, and chill 2 more hours before shaping. It isn't necessary.